inkavik

A slow journey to the rhythm of water and light, an encounter with a territory and its inhabitants.

📅 28.08.2025 – The sea as the last Icelandic chapter

Reported by bre

August 28, 2025

📅 28.08.2025 – The sea as the last Icelandic chapter

📍 ///eeriness.dispensed.elders

The ferry casts off, and we're off: Jimny and I are on board. Apart from the belt, which started whistling again this morning, nothing to report. The brakes work well, and especially they release correctly when asked. The drive to the pass leading to Seyðisfjörður was uneventful, despite fog so dense you could almost touch it.

21 days spent in Iceland, accumulated over three trips: in total, 9 weeks on this magnificent, but oh-so-unpredictable island. From a weather point of view, it was probably the worst year I've experienced: only 4 days of good weather compared to at least 8 days of rain and 4 to 5 days of very strong wind. It's difficult for Gabrielle to draw as planned—pencils, pens, paint, and damp wind clearly don't mix well. And let's not forget the cold, a faithful friend that numbs fingers, breath, and motivation.

We opted for a rooftop tent, a real luxury, but with a downside: it offers much better wind resistance than a traditional trekking tent. As for the annex, it wasn't as useful as I'd hoped: setting up and taking down it is time-consuming and impractical for daily travel. It only really becomes useful when you're staying two nights or more—it then provides a large, dry space, welcome in case of rain or moderate wind.

Hornstrandir remained a demanding first approach—physical and mental preparation, equipment (tent, food, clothing, orientation). A necessary introduction, but a return is definitely necessary.

Is bringing your own car environmentally friendly or cost-effective? I'm still not convinced. The odometer already showed 2,200 km in Ísafjörður: at 8 L/100 km, that's around 176 liters consumed. Even excluding a few trips to the Faroe Islands or Denmark, that's still a lot. Budget-wise, the question also arises: in the event of a breakdown, you're practically on your own. Choosing the Suzuki Jimny represents a compromise: reasonable price, the ability to take trains and ferries without blowing your budget, and sufficient capacity to cover a large part of Iceland. But some areas remain inaccessible. Where other, more robust vehicles would allow everything, the costs quickly escalate. In 2016, no river prevented us from traveling with the same model (without a roof tent), which reminds us how much climate and glacial melt can alter an itinerary.

The highlands deserve a thousand times more time, but the weather decides. We quickly found ourselves stuck in isolated places, without network or regular passage—hence the importance of traveling in two vehicles for greater safety. The Golden Circle is magnificent, but does not reflect the raw Iceland that I like to discover off the beaten track. For me, it is the West, North, or East Fjords, and especially the highlands, that truly embody the wild nature that I experienced in 2008 and 2016.

In two days, we'll be back in Denmark, beginning our return journey to Switzerland and France. Future posts will be more sparse and focused on the project's progress and the upcoming publication of the travel diary.

Thank you to everyone who followed us to the land of puffins, thieving arctic foxes, elves and trolls.

See you soon !

#Inkavik #Routbook 1TP5WildIceland #FerryLife 1TP5Expedition #JimnyTrip #RainAndWind #HumanJourney #ResponsibleTravel #ToyismIceland #TustainableTourism #ToyrWithYourCar

If you missed the other episodes:

📅 27.08.2025 – Traits croisés en Islande

📅 08/27/2025 – Crossed lines in Iceland

📍 ///chez.petur.marietta Sometimes chance has a very special way of reaching out to us. While paying the garage bill, the accountant lets me in, almost as if it were a secret, that a German painter lives just a stone's throw away, having lived in Iceland for decades...

📅 27.08.2025 – L’écrou de Damoclès

📅 08/27/2025 – The Damocles Nut

📍 ///successfully.clerics.mountains The night was great, despite the various things on our minds. First of all: will we be able to reach Seydisfjördur and catch the ferry? Without that, it's like dominoes... nothing goes right, everything goes wrong. And we don't dare...

📅 26.08.2025 – La sérénade du démonte-pneu

📅 08/26/2025 – The Tire Iron’s Serenade

📍Between despair and depression, not far from Safébocou-sur-nerfs Warm, in a room without wind or rain, in a dry bed... without a single sound, a deafening silence. The day started off rather badly. A bit like the second part of yesterday's evening...

📅 25.08.2025 – Salle d’attente improvisée

📅 08/25/2025 – Improvised waiting room

📍 ///surreal.plastering.hesitating Here we are, cozy in a café in Höfn, waiting for the specialist. A diagnosis, some treatment, and perhaps the promise to continue the journey. For the past few days, a feeling of unease has been setting in. Without complaining, we gritted our teeth,...

📅 24.08.2025 – Sud de l’Islande

📅 24.08.2025 – South Iceland

📍///eats.snowballs.entwine Unsurprisingly, waking up to the rain. But not for long: I took advantage of a lull to fold up the soaked tent before it started again. Always that fine line between folding up a wet but dry tent, or waiting...

Gouache is coming.

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🎨🌊 #GouacheIsComing #GameOfBrushes #WaterfallArt #IcelandInWatercolor #Islande2025 #IcelandTravel #TravelSketch #CarnetDeVoyage #SlowTravel #ArtOnTheRoad #PaintingTheWorld #ArtisticJourney #IcelandicLandscapes #TravelArtist #WatercolorAndGouache #TravelArtDiary...

📅 24.08.2025 – Réflexions de voyage

📅 08/24/2025 – Travel Reflections

📍 ///hyping.unloads.ledges A quick clarification following my visit to Geysir and Gullfoss. When I use the word "Disneyland," it's not a criticism of how anyone chooses to travel. Tourism is vital to Iceland—in fact, after fishing, it's one of...

📅 22.08.2025 – En route vers le Landmannalaugar

📅 08.22.2025 – On the way to Landmannalaugar

📍 ///mattresses.scrubbers.ditty Once the tent is folded – not without difficulty because of the rain, wind, and cold – we set off in search of water and, above all, gasoline, the real lifeblood of these lands. Then, as Iceland obliges, we stop at Geysir, the famous geyser...

📅 21.08.2025 – Reykjavik, la baie des fumées

📅 08/21/2025 – Reykjavik, the Bay of Smoke

📍 ///offshoot.biodiversity.commented After several weeks in the fjords and remotest corners of Iceland, a radical change of scenery awaits: here we are in Reykjavik, the world's northernmost capital. Founded in 874 by Ingólfur Arnarson, a chieftain...

📅 21.08.2025 – Petits réglages en capitale

📅 08/21/2025 – Small adjustments in capitals

📍 ///classics.crab.inclined Morning in town to sort out a few unfinished business. While Gabrielle draws, I find an optician who agrees to take care of my glasses, which survived their adventure folded in the tent at Hornstrandir. Since then,...

📅 20.08.2025 – Cap sur Reykjavik

📅 08.20.2025 – Heading for Reykjavik

📍 ///optician.inclement.chemistry It's been sunny for three days now, and it feels amazing. There are very few clouds on the horizon, which is almost surprising. It's a bit of a stopover day before heading back to the capital to make the various adjustments before the...

🗓️ 19.08.2025 – Sources chaudes, épaves et falaises

🗓️ 08/19/2025 – Hot springs, shipwrecks and cliffs

📍 ///tatters.pays.busload When you wake up, there's nothing like a hot bath to start the day... and get behind schedule 😅 But in reality, apart from being in Seyðisfjörður on the evening of the 27th, everything is quite flexible. A 1-2 day stop in Reykjavík is planned, for...

🗓️ 18.08.2025 – Route cabossée et sources chaudes

🗓️ 08/18/2025 – Bumpy road and hot springs

📍 ///often.plop.gating Unlike 2016, this time we decided to continue driving on this chaotic track. It's as rutted as it is splendid, each pothole seeming to hide a panorama more impressive than the last. We wonder...

📅 17.08.2025 — Journée cocon à Ísafjörður

📅 08/17/2025 — Cocoon day in Ísafjörður

📍 ///sweltering.squishy.vine This morning, the wind is still blowing strongly—to catch our breath, it's a recovery day. The morning is dedicated to visiting the Westfjords Heritage Museum, housed in one of the oldest half-timbered houses in Isafjörður. The...

📆 17.08.2025 — Le vent, maître du Hornstrandir

📆 08.17.2025 — The wind, master of Hornstrandir

📍 ///vampire.bareness.aspect The wind blew all night and for a good part of the day. I can't imagine the situation in Hornstrandir. It's a beautiful area, and it's understandable that Icelanders want to keep it pristine for generations to come...