📍 ///proteins.gridded.comebacks
The. Rain. Has. Stopped.
Yes, yes. We didn't believe it anymore.
Departure as soon as possible, heading for Hlöðuvík, 10 km from here. Two passes to cross, some technical passages - enough to undermine the troops' morale, quickly boosted in Búðir, a tiny hamlet consisting of a house and a tool shed.
There, a magical encounter with Bjarney and his daughter. Gabrielle takes out her sketchbook, while I chat with two Icelanders who divide their time between Dubai and Reykjavík, but spend several weeks a year in Hornstrandir. The conversation drifts, advice flows: on their recommendation, we decide to change our itinerary. Less spectacular perhaps, but better suited for a first discovery.
Over some blueberries, coffee, cake, and a warmth that's both human and real—a room heated for the occasion—comes the ultimate gift: a roll of toilet paper. Yes, seriously. Here, it changes everything.
There's only 17 minutes of walking left... and a freezing river to cross. One last test of morale before finally reaching camp and falling asleep, lulled by the surf.
Today, I dedicate this stage to Yann, with whom I would have loved to share this timeless region.
🌿 Did you know?
In Hornstrandir, vegetation is sparse, but summer brings an explosion of small Arctic berries like wild blueberries (aðalbláber in Icelandic). Rich in antioxidants, they were long a valuable supplement for the fjord dwellers, who lived in extremely isolated conditions. Even today, coming across a handful of berries in this harsh setting is like receiving a gift directly from nature.
🔖 #Hornstrandir #IcelandAdventure #IcelandTravel #WildIceland #TravelInIceland #Iceland2025 #IcelandHiking #IcelandNature #Rencounter #ArcticJourney
