We arrived safely in Iceland, on time... but beware of the time zone conundrum: Denmark, the Faroes, and Iceland don't share the same time zone. The ferry, however, remains set to the Faroes'.
First shock: it's really cold here. Much colder than in 2008 or 2016 at the same time—a cold that complicates everything: cooking, pitching the tent, sleeping. The annex helps, certainly, but requires heavy logistics (I even took it down in the middle of the night, afraid it would turn us into a hot air balloon).
In the morning, after a quick folding of the tent, we headed towards this hot waterfall seen the day before: Laugavallalaug.
Here, in the early 20th century, a farmer lived in the isolated valley. The locals used this natural spring as a bath and for washing clothes, taking advantage of the water naturally heated by geothermal activity. Even today, the water gushes hot from the cliff into a natural pool—and that morning, we were alone.
The water is scalding hot, the air icy: you suddenly understand why you endure the wind, the rain, the bumpy paths, and the freezing nights. Going out is harder... especially barefoot in the mud, under the curious gaze of newly arrived Italians.
Quick breakfast and off we go Stuðlagil Canyon : beautiful, but very touristy and with surprisingly modern infrastructure. Hot meal to warm up, then stop at a farm café on the road to Akureyri to write these lines.
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