inkavik

A slow journey to the rhythm of water and light, an encounter with a territory and its inhabitants.

First deployments

It might be a small detail to you… but for us, it makes all the difference. Today, we put up the roof tent for the very first time on the Jimny. A slightly awkward opening at first, a moment of hesitation to understand the mechanism… then it clicked...

First surprises

The plan was simple:🚙 Drive to a quiet spot near Clermont-Ferrand,🌲 find a safe place to test the tent,🛠️ set up, adjust, sleep under the stars. And honestly... it started well. Perfect setup, a little time to get the tent positioned correctly...

 The Genesis of Inkavik

The idea for Inkavik goes back a long way. During my first trip to Iceland in 2008, a friend and I spotted this strange and fascinating region: Hornstrandir. An isolated peninsula, with no roads or permanent dwellings, at the end of the Icelandic world. We dreamed of living there...

Waiting for the road

A little news from the Icelandic front (or rather: some preparation before setting off). 📍 The roof rack isn't fixed yet, but we're making progress. Several serious leads, some good contacts, we should have a clear picture tomorrow or Friday. The idea is...

In balance

Tomorrow's verdict. The famous broken roof bar may finally find redemption. The solution looks good, the parts are there, ingenuity is in the air... but with mechanics (and Iceland in your sights), you never swear by anything. If all goes well...

The road is solid again

Good news: the car is fixed! The infamous roof bar, which had failed us without warning, has found a solid, clean, quick solution - and it feels great to be able to drive off with confidence. But that's not all. 🎯 On the sound advice of Street &...

First night on high ground

First test night in the roof tent, at last. And the verdict: it holds. It creaks and squeaks, a little as if the Jimny itself were getting used to this new cap... but once you're settled in, you're comfortable. The space is good, the air flows well, and so is the view. We...

Cold, reliability and other mountain lessons

A half-hearted night in the roof tent. Despite the heatwave that suffocates the plains at 1300 meters altitude, a sleeping bag remains indispensable. I hadn't taken it. Result: a nasty cold, and a useful reminder of the simple laws of cold air and nights...

Fuelling the adventure

Yesterday, a big expedition... to the supermarket. Objective: gather a month's worth of provisions to live on, cook, and get by without a fridge or market, while remaining a little happy. Obviously: nothing fresh, but everything to survive (and a little more). On the menu (in no particular order, without...

Goal reached on Ulule!

That's it... the Ulule goal has been reached! 💥 Thanks to you, the Inkavik travel journal will see the light of day—and that's crazy. A huge thank you to everyone who supported, shared, pre-ordered, sent a kind word, or simply believed in this somewhat...

🧭 D–12 — Paper, sea and silence

The maps have arrived. Iceland on one side, the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve on the other. And a compass—simple, precise, reassuring. The kind of object that weighs little but says a lot. 📍 From August 11th to 18th, we'll be in the reserve, without a car, without a cell phone,...

🎨 D–11 — Inkavik's youngest fan!

Today, a surprise that made us melt: A young budding explorer took his pencils… and reproduced an Inkavik drawing! ✏️ The result? A version full of energy, color, sincerity — and enthusiasm for Gabrielle's work,...

🚙 D–9 — Finally ready

After a week of running between garages and making adjustments, the car is ready. 🛠️ Snorkel installed, ⚙️ clutch cable replaced, 🔧 symering replaced — everything you need to tackle Iceland's fords, tracks, and unforeseen events. And that's not all: 📦 We received...

🗺️ D–6 — Tools of the past

Sometimes you make do with what you have... 🧭 I got my hands on an old GPS from 2009, second-hand, a little tired, the screen yellowed, the buttons finicky — but it will do the job. With paper maps and a compass, it will form a reliable trio. Well, provided...

🌍 D–5 — The site is modernizing (a little)

Two new features on the inkavik.com website for those who want to follow the project more closely — or in English. 🇬🇧 The site is now available in English. Thanks to automatic translation, you can view all the content in the language of...

✏️ D–4 — On the eve of departure, a portrait and boxes

Gabrielle has arrived in Geneva. Preparations are entering their final stretch. 📦 The last orders will be delivered this evening. We're packing, sorting, and distributing. Soon, everything will fit into a few boxes, two backpacks... and a small car. 🖋️...

🚗 D–3 — It’s starting to look like a departure

Everything is in its place. The boxes are loaded, strapped down, and organized, like a little mobile survival Tetris. 📦 All that's missing are the backpacks, the drawing supplies... and a couple of last-minute odds and ends (always the hardest to fit). In the...

🚙 The departure

So, off we go. After an aperitif offered by the University of Lausanne Computer Science Center, we loaded the last items into the car: 🧀 a good piece of Gruyère, 🥖 …and some savory flutes, much crispier than bread. The car is full,...

📆 07/30/2025 — First adjustments

📍 Location: ///films.splendid.hindered First night spent in the rooftop tent, somewhere between Bern and Basel, in a secluded spot between two forests. 🌲 The calm was there, the atmosphere too… but the technique still needs to be mastered. 🛠️ Temperature,...

📆 07/30/2025 — Continued from today

📍 Location: ///yell.slipping.sulked After a good breakfast, we enjoyed a break in Basel: ⛪ quick visit to the cathedral, 🌊 short tour along the Rhine, 😴 and an impromptu micro-nap for the most tired. Then we headed to Lörrach, our last stop...

📆 07/31/2025 — Heading North

📍 Location: ///parks.visitors.crush Last night, the train finally left 3 hours late... But the railway magic worked: despite everything, it arrived on time this morning in Hamburg. (A small feat, even with the 30-minute margin due to a...

📆 01.08.2025 — Border crossed

📍 Location: ///graceful.twirl.frankly Leaving Hamburg without incident, the Jimny headed north in somewhat hesitant weather—half fig, half drizzle. 🌊 The spot we found for the night was about forty minutes after the Danish border: a small...

📆 01.08.2025 — Danish detour to Aarhus

📍 Location: ///image.kebabs.racks Today, a city break in Aarhus, Denmark's second largest city, located by the sea, dynamic, student-friendly, and surprisingly peaceful. 👣 We explored the city on foot, discovering its narrow streets full of...

📆 02.08.2025 — Wind, sand… and shoes

📍 Location: ///disrespect.storing.pixies After a warm encounter on a terrace in Aarhus with a couple as curious as they were friendly, we hit the road again towards Hirtshals, the last stop before the big leap to Iceland. But before that, a...

📆 02.08.2025 — Heading north

📍 Location: ///superb.understanding.exhaustion The ferry left the port on time. The Jimny is on board, and so are we. 🧾 A little hesitant at check-in: our valiant four-wheeled companion is not 190 cm as indicated in the reservation... but...

📆 03.08.2025 — At sea

📍 Location: Somewhere off the Shetland Islands (the real one will be added as soon as we get it) 🌊 The night passed without incident on board, lulled by the discreet rolling of the ferry. After a hearty meal at the buffet, we didn't stay long: a little reading, then...

📆 03.08.2025 — Faroe in sight

📍 Location: ///quail.peacemakers.background 🛳️ We arrived safely in Tórshavn at 6 p.m., right on time. After a few minutes to get back on land, we headed north to find a spot to set up camp before nightfall. 🎯 We...

📆 04.08.2025 — Between giants, rain and decisions

📍 Location: ///rounders.quicksand.sprung 🌙 After a calm night, no rain or storm, we packed up camp—still a bit messy, we'll get better at it. Then we put on our boots for our first hike together, just to get our rhythms in order, the...

📆 04.08.2025 — A dry afternoon

📍 Location: ///windbreaker.drowsy.reopens After our morning stroll through stone giants and soggy paths, we settled down in Vestmanna for the afternoon. 🎨 Gabrielle gets out her paintbrushes, a few sketches are born in the rain, while I work on two...

 📆 05.08.2025 — Wind, witches and waterfalls

📍Location: ///backward.prefaces.rosier 📸 Photo: Bøsdalafossur, the waterfall that flows into the sea ⸻ Today is a “beautiful day” for the Faroes. That is to say: no rain, but a gale-force wind, a gray sky pierced by a few apparitions...

📆 06.08.2025 — Wind, rain and… goodbye Gruyère

📍 ///vesting.smudges.shunt After an unremarkable night, quite windy and sprinkled with rain, the morning is beautiful and sunny — we can even have breakfast outside without having to mingle with the other campers. I'm writing these lines by the sea...

📆 06.08.2025 – Faroe Islands in brief

📍 The Basics Location: Archipelago of 18 volcanic islands in the middle of the North Atlantic, between Iceland and Norway (but under Danish sovereignty). Area: ~1,400 km² (roughly the size of London, but with a lot more sheep)....

📆 07.08.2025 — Detour to Elduvík and return to Tórshavn

📍 ///unconscious.kitchens.evaluations This last day in the Faroe Islands begins with an unexpected detour to Elduvík, a village nestled at the end of a verdant valley, lined with colorful houses on either side of its small river. Here stands the statue of Marmennilin, a...

📆 07.08.2025 — At sea, heading for Iceland

📍 Somewhere between the Faroe Islands and Iceland, in the North Atlantic 🗺️ Approximate location: Deck 10, thick carpet, blocked view Photo: 🐑 A Faroe sheep (so we don't forget where we came from) Land in sight. Well... depending on which devices are receiving...

📆 08.08.2025 — Hot bath in the middle of the cold

📍 ///haggis.tagged.windpipe We arrived safely in Iceland, on time... but beware of the time zone conundrum: Denmark, the Faroes, and Iceland don't share the same time zone. The ferry, however, remains set to the Faroes'. First shock: here, it's...

📆 09.08.2025 — Technical adjustments in Akureyri

📍 ///dearest.cheaply.linked 📸 Photo: Akureyri's iconic church Given the persistent cold, we need to rethink our strategy. The tent keeps the heat in well, the sleeping bags do the job, but preparing meals remains a real challenge. Setting up the annex for protection requires...

📆 10.08.2025 — Tacos, hot springs & Icelandic crossing

📍 ///triumph.washy.cried — right near the waterfall where we slept. The sun is finally shining this afternoon in Akureyri. With laundry taking longer than expected, we took the opportunity to enjoy some tacos before heading back to Ísafjörður. The...

📆 08/10/2025 — Last kilometers before the unknown

📍 ///newbie.guacamole.confuses We set off from our rest area, heading for Ísafjörður. The road is long, but we had planned a few stops. First stop: a hot spring I spotted in my notes... except it apparently no longer exists. We improvise and...

📆 11.08.2025 — Last moments of connection

📍 ///queries.counteract.reveal The quayside is calm. The wind carries the smell of salt and the open sea. The bags already weigh on our shoulders, but it's our hearts that beat faster. In less than an hour, the sea will be our route and the horizon our only compass. There we are...

11.08.2025 — Puffins at sea

📍 ///programmers.panicked.surviving A little bonus post, because we're still getting signal while we're sailing - and after the peninsula on the horizon, complete silence awaits us. The crossing is going well... at least for the first half hour. We see dozens of...

📆 11.08.2025 — The Horn

📍 ///indirect.highlighted.detrimental After a few stops to drop off and pick up hikers—or exhausted guides—we finally arrive at Hornvík, the main camp of Hornstrandir. While Gabrielle sketches the captain on the boat, I disembark to...

📆 12.08.2025 — Hornstrandir

📍 ///indirect.highlighted.detrimental It's raining. Hard. Since yesterday. Non-stop. Cold, wind, humidity: everything is getting complicated. Cooking requires precise logistics so as not to turn the tent into a fire pit. Water has to be fetched from the other...

📆 08/13/2025 — Hlöðuvík

📍 ///proteins.gridded.comebacks The. Rain. Has. Stopped. Yes, yes. We didn't believe it anymore. We left as soon as possible, heading for Hlöðuvík, 10 km from here. Two passes to cross, some technical sections—enough to dampen the troops' morale, quickly boosted in Búðir,...

📆 14.08.2025 — Hlöðuvík to Hesteyri

📍 ///newlywed.placemat.fajitas 14 km between Hlöðuvík and Hesteyri. The first 5-6 in a light but steady rain, the kind that never falls hard enough to convince you to bring out the big guns, but which eventually penetrates all the layers and hits...

📆 08/15/2025 — Hesteyri

📍 ///manufactured.barn.sabotaged I take advantage of a nearby café to warm up and glean information on the weather, the region and especially the possibility of going to see the former American base of Straumnesfjall. Verdict: complicated... Tomorrow wind, Sunday...

📆 08/16/2025 — Return to Ísafjörður

📍 ///rouses.pulsates.weaken We weren't lied to. Well... almost. 🌬️ During the night, the wind picked up violently, accompanied by rain. Suffice to say that my dreams of returning to the former American base at Straumnesfjall vanished: the rain is still okay,...

📆 08.17.2025 — The wind, master of Hornstrandir

📍 ///vampire.bareness.aspect The wind blew all night and for a good part of the day. I can't imagine the situation in Hornstrandir. It's a beautiful area, and it's understandable that Icelanders want to keep it pristine for generations to come...

📅 08/17/2025 — Cocoon day in Ísafjörður

📍 ///sweltering.squishy.vine This morning, the wind is still blowing strongly—to catch our breath, it's a recovery day. The morning is dedicated to visiting the Westfjords Heritage Museum, housed in one of the oldest half-timbered houses in Isafjörður. The...

📅 08/18/2025 — The 20-cent repair and the lighthouse at the end of the world

📍 ///couplets.grandstand.dictionary It's time to leave, a little tidying up, we'll get the car ready, and we'll leave Ísafjörður. But first, a thrift store—always interesting to see what's being sold secondhand. While Gabrielle hunts for bargains, I tackle a problem that...

🗓️ 08/18/2025 – Bumpy road and hot springs

📍 ///often.plop.gating Unlike 2016, this time we decided to continue driving on this chaotic track. It's as rutted as it is splendid, each pothole seeming to hide a panorama more impressive than the last. We wonder...

🗓️ 08/19/2025 – Hot springs, shipwrecks and cliffs

📍 ///tatters.pays.busload When you wake up, there's nothing like a hot bath to start the day... and get behind schedule 😅 But in reality, apart from being in Seyðisfjörður on the evening of the 27th, everything is quite flexible. A 1-2 day stop in Reykjavík is planned, for...

📅 08.20.2025 – Heading for Reykjavik

📍 ///optician.inclement.chemistry It's been sunny for three days now, and it feels amazing. There are very few clouds on the horizon, which is almost surprising. It's a bit of a stopover day before heading back to the capital to make the various adjustments before the...

📅 08/21/2025 – Small adjustments in capitals

📍 ///classics.crab.inclined Morning in town to sort out a few unfinished business. While Gabrielle draws, I find an optician who agrees to take care of my glasses, which survived their adventure folded in the tent at Hornstrandir. Since then,...

📅 08/21/2025 – Reykjavik, the Bay of Smoke

📍 ///offshoot.biodiversity.commented After several weeks in the fjords and remotest corners of Iceland, a radical change of scenery awaits: here we are in Reykjavik, the world's northernmost capital. Founded in 874 by Ingólfur Arnarson, a chieftain...

📅 08.22.2025 – On the way to Landmannalaugar

📍 ///mattresses.scrubbers.ditty Once the tent is folded – not without difficulty because of the rain, wind, and cold – we set off in search of water and, above all, gasoline, the real lifeblood of these lands. Then, as Iceland obliges, we stop at Geysir, the famous geyser...

📅 08.23.2025 – Bláhnúkur and departure from Landmannalaugar

📍 ///enclosures.denture.bathwater The night was incredibly clear: a sky studded with stars, with no light pollution for miles around. If I'd had a little more energy, I could have enjoyed it more. In any case, it heralded a...

📅 08/24/2025 – Travel Reflections

📍 ///hyping.unloads.ledges A quick clarification following my visit to Geysir and Gullfoss. When I use the word "Disneyland," it's not a criticism of how anyone chooses to travel. Tourism is vital to Iceland—in fact, after fishing, it's one of...

Gouache is coming.

🎨🌊 #GouacheIsComing #GameOfBrushes #WaterfallArt #IcelandInWatercolor #Islande2025 #IcelandTravel #TravelSketch #CarnetDeVoyage #SlowTravel #ArtOnTheRoad #PaintingTheWorld #ArtisticJourney #IcelandicLandscapes #TravelArtist #WatercolorAndGouache #TravelArtDiary...

📅 24.08.2025 – South Iceland

📍///eats.snowballs.entwine Unsurprisingly, waking up to the rain. But not for long: I took advantage of a lull to fold up the soaked tent before it started again. Always that fine line between folding up a wet but dry tent, or waiting...

📅 08/25/2025 – Improvised waiting room

📍 ///surreal.plastering.hesitating Here we are, cozy in a café in Höfn, waiting for the specialist. A diagnosis, some treatment, and perhaps the promise to continue the journey. For the past few days, a feeling of unease has been setting in. Without complaining, we gritted our teeth,...

📅 08/26/2025 – The Tire Iron’s Serenade

📍Between despair and depression, not far from Safébocou-sur-nerfs Warm, in a room without wind or rain, in a dry bed... without a single sound, a deafening silence. The day started off rather badly. A bit like the second part of yesterday's evening...

📅 08/27/2025 – The Damocles Nut

📍 ///successfully.clerics.mountains The night was great, despite the various things on our minds. First of all: will we be able to reach Seydisfjördur and catch the ferry? Without that, it's like dominoes... nothing goes right, everything goes wrong. And we don't dare...

📅 08/27/2025 – Crossed lines in Iceland

📍 ///chez.petur.marietta Sometimes chance has a very special way of reaching out to us. While paying the garage bill, the accountant lets me in, almost as if it were a secret, that a German painter lives just a stone's throw away, having lived in Iceland for decades...

📆 08/28/2025 – Mafalda in Icelandic

📍///architect.salvaged.nannies You couldn't make this up. Departure by ferry. Cut off from the digital "world" for at least 48 hours.  

📅 28.08.2025 – The sea as the last Icelandic chapter

📍 ///eeriness.dispensed.elders The ferry casts off, and we're off: Jimny and I are on board. Apart from the belt, which started whistling again this morning, nothing to report. The brakes work well, and most importantly, they release properly when...

📅 09/07/2025 – Home Sweet Home

📍 ///home.sweet.home We empty Jimny. We remove the boxes, we tidy, we sort. The papers, the souvenirs, the objects that have accumulated week after week. We finally find that damn thing we've been looking for everywhere, and we finally mourn this...

📆 September 18 — After Iceland, another adventure begins

A little over two weeks after our return, the Icelandic dust has settled—and with it, the pace is slowly returning to a more “normal” pace. Gabrielle is back in France, surrounded by piles of notebooks, sheets of paper, and colorful sketches. She sorts,...

🦊 Les voleurs du Hornstrandir

(ou comment le renard arctique a perfectionné l’art du cambriolage en milieu isolé) Il est minuscule, incroyablement rusé, et totalement dépourvu de respect pour la propriété privée. Voici le renard arctique du Hornstrandir, petit fantôme du nord islandais, capable de...

Iceland, a notebook, a slow and drawn adventure

📖 The on-site adventure is over… but you can still be a part of it!

It is always possible to pre-order your signed Inkavik travel journal via the Ulule campaign.

👇 The link is just below!