Iceland, a notebook, a slow and drawn adventure
📖 The on-site adventure is over… but you can still be a part of it!It is always possible to pre-order your signed Inkavik travel journal via the Ulule campaign.
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If you missed the previous episodes:
📆 08.17.2025 — The wind, master of Hornstrandir
📍 ///vampire.bareness.aspect The wind blew all night and for a good part of the day. I can't imagine the situation in Hornstrandir. It's a beautiful area, and it's understandable that Icelanders want to keep it pristine for generations to come...
📆 08/16/2025 — Return to Ísafjörður
📍 ///rouses.pulsates.weaken We weren't lied to. Well... almost. 🌬️ During the night, the wind picked up violently, accompanied by rain. Suffice to say that my dreams of returning to the former American base at Straumnesfjall vanished: the rain is still okay,...
📆 08/15/2025 — Hesteyri
📍 ///manufactured.barn.sabotaged I take advantage of a nearby café to warm up and glean information on the weather, the region and especially the possibility of going to see the former American base of Straumnesfjall. Verdict: complicated... Tomorrow wind, Sunday...
📆 14.08.2025 — Hlöðuvík to Hesteyri
📍 ///newlywed.placemat.fajitas 14 km between Hlöðuvík and Hesteyri. The first 5-6 in a light but steady rain, the kind that never falls hard enough to convince you to bring out the big guns, but which eventually penetrates all the layers and hits...
📆 08/13/2025 — Hlöðuvík
📍 ///proteins.gridded.comebacks The. Rain. Has. Stopped. Yes, yes. We didn't believe it anymore. We left as soon as possible, heading for Hlöðuvík, 10 km from here. Two passes to cross, some technical sections—enough to dampen the troops' morale, quickly boosted in Búðir,...
📆 12.08.2025 — Hornstrandir
📍 ///indirect.highlighted.detrimental It's raining. Hard. Since yesterday. Non-stop. Cold, wind, humidity: everything is getting complicated. Cooking requires precise logistics so as not to turn the tent into a fire pit. Water has to be fetched from the other...
📆 11.08.2025 — The Horn
📍 ///indirect.highlighted.detrimental After a few stops to drop off and pick up hikers—or exhausted guides—we finally arrive at Hornvík, the main camp of Hornstrandir. While Gabrielle sketches the captain on the boat, I disembark to...
11.08.2025 — Puffins at sea
📍 ///programmers.panicked.surviving A little bonus post, because we're still getting signal while we're sailing - and after the peninsula on the horizon, complete silence awaits us. The crossing is going well... at least for the first half hour. We see dozens of...
📆 11.08.2025 — Last moments of connection
📍 ///queries.counteract.reveal The quayside is calm. The wind carries the smell of salt and the open sea. The bags already weigh on our shoulders, but it's our hearts that beat faster. In less than an hour, the sea will be our route and the horizon our only compass. There we are...
📆 08/10/2025 — Last kilometers before the unknown
📍 ///newbie.guacamole.confuses We set off from our rest area, heading for Ísafjörður. The road is long, but we had planned a few stops. First stop: a hot spring I spotted in my notes... except it apparently no longer exists. We improvise and...
📆 10.08.2025 — Tacos, hot springs & Icelandic crossing
📍 ///triumph.washy.cried — right near the waterfall where we slept. The sun is finally shining this afternoon in Akureyri. With laundry taking longer than expected, we took the opportunity to enjoy some tacos before heading back to Ísafjörður. The...
📆 09.08.2025 — Technical adjustments in Akureyri
📍 ///dearest.cheaply.linked 📸 Photo: Akureyri's iconic church Given the persistent cold, we need to rethink our strategy. The tent keeps the heat in well, the sleeping bags do the job, but preparing meals remains a real challenge. Setting up the annex for protection requires...
📆 08.08.2025 — Hot bath in the middle of the cold
📍 ///haggis.tagged.windpipe We arrived safely in Iceland, on time... but beware of the time zone conundrum: Denmark, the Faroes, and Iceland don't share the same time zone. The ferry, however, remains set to the Faroes'. First shock: here, it's...
📆 07.08.2025 — At sea, heading for Iceland
📍 Somewhere between the Faroe Islands and Iceland, in the North Atlantic 🗺️ Approximate location: Deck 10, thick carpet, blocked view Photo: 🐑 A Faroe sheep (so we don't forget where we came from) Land in sight. Well... depending on which devices are receiving...
📆 07.08.2025 — Detour to Elduvík and return to Tórshavn
📍 ///unconscious.kitchens.evaluations This last day in the Faroe Islands begins with an unexpected detour to Elduvík, a village nestled at the end of a verdant valley, lined with colorful houses on either side of its small river. Here stands the statue of Marmennilin, a...
📆 06.08.2025 – Faroe Islands in brief
📍 The Basics Location: Archipelago of 18 volcanic islands in the middle of the North Atlantic, between Iceland and Norway (but under Danish sovereignty). Area: ~1,400 km² (roughly the size of London, but with a lot more sheep)....
📆 06.08.2025 — Wind, rain and… goodbye Gruyère
📍 ///vesting.smudges.shunt After an unremarkable night, quite windy and sprinkled with rain, the morning is beautiful and sunny — we can even have breakfast outside without having to mingle with the other campers. I'm writing these lines by the sea...
📆 05.08.2025 — Wind, witches and waterfalls
📍Location: ///backward.prefaces.rosier 📸 Photo: Bøsdalafossur, the waterfall that flows into the sea ⸻ Today is a “beautiful day” for the Faroes. That is to say: no rain, but a gale-force wind, a gray sky pierced by a few apparitions...
